There are many things to be expected from a restaurant’s wait staff regarding wine service.
Here are just a few that are consistently bungled, though in advance, I entirely acknowledge waiting tables and dealing with the occasional nasty patron is very hard work. I once bussed restaurant tables, seeing, hearing, and feeling the adversity and grief servers often dealt with.
The single most objectionable thing I find is when a server doesn’t open the bottle tableside. Who knows what’s happening back in the kitchen? Too many foolish (was it placed near the oven?) or unethical (did they try a sip?) gaffes are possible. I’ve called servers back as they walked away with my unopened bottle more than once.
There’s pretentious, pompous intimidation. Those people should not be the face of any retail business. Professionalism and respect are always required.
There are volumes devoted to presenting and opening wine bottles. If you’re at an establishment with their own wine list, the waitperson should first show the host (the person who ordered the wine) the bottle, confirming it’s as requested. The foil should be removed by cutting it under, not above, the bottle’s collar, preventing the wine from contacting the foil when poured. That foil is trash and shouldn’t be put on the table, though the cork should be left for the host’s inspection. All this, plus pulling the cork, should be done while holding the bottle in the air, not on the table.
Corks sometimes break when pulled. Removing a broken cork requires an Ah-So (pictured), a very effective tool for this problem. It’s a tricky gadget for the inexperienced and if used incorrectly, the cork usually crumbles into the bottle.
The bottle top should be wiped before the first pour to avoid drips and cork bits getting into the bottle or glasses. The host should be offered a small sample for her/his approval and the server should smoothly accept a rejection if the wine is tainted. Pour clockwise around the table, serving the host last.
Another really (really) annoying issue is pouring too much wine into the glass. This happens all the time and encourages ordering another bottle … good for the restaurant, but preventing that wine tasting essential, swirling. The glasses should be spotless, and an ice bucket should be offered for whites, rosés and sparklers.
These are only a few of many details, and much of it is just traditional ritual. After all, if the wine is poured counterclockwise around the table, it’s not going to affect much. Though it all reflects your server’s lack of concern and wine expertise.
Ernest Valtri of Buckingham is a sculptor, painter, graphic designer and a former member of the PLCB’s Wine Advisory Council. Please contact Erno at ObjectDesign@verizon.net.
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